I was meant to write a blog soon after the Bouldering Youth Open Event on the 9th December. But i didn't exactly feel like exposing how badly i had done. I don't want to go into the details but I made it into finals and came 6th overall. Which is 5 places down from my result from the summer in Youth A. And i didn't make it on to the Youth Bouldering Team which was my main goal. I can't actually describe how demotivated i felt and how angry and upset with myself i was. I could make all sorts of excuses to why i had done so badly and the list would be huge, but instead i'm going to concentrate on getting fit and strong again for next year. I think it's awesome how all the competitors did over the weekend too, well done to them all.
2012 has been an interesting year. Up to July i was fit and strong and climbing better than ever, i was getting great results all year. Then things went downhill from about August and my other blogs explain some of the reasons why. Illness has been a big factor in how my climbing had stopped progressing, i actually can't remember the last time i felt well. But things like this happen and it stops you from climbing well and training. You've just got to let it pass and do all you can to get yourself better. That's what i'm trying to do and it's pointless attempting to climb hard at the moment. A huge part of climbing well and being fit and healthy is diet in my opinion. If you don't feed your body what it needs how is it going to get stronger and cope with hard training? And by improving diet i don't mean eating a carrot a day, i mean eating regular, balanced meals of nutritious foods everyday. This has always been a struggle and i feel that it is finally the time to kick myself and realise that my climbing is not going to get better unless i eat well. And this time my mum is even wanting to eat better too, which is a relief seeing as i live with her! This also gave me an idea for her Christmas present, an alkaline recipe book, and i can make her feel guilty if she doesn't use it!
One of many things that isn't really recognised in climbing is how young people have to deal with failure by themselves. I know loads of people that weren't happy with themselves in many comps, including the youth opens. And they had to deal with it, myself included. Yes there are parents, coaches and friends but sometimes it's difficult for them to understand how you're feeling if they have never been in your position before. I'm lucky because my coach, Lucinda Whittaker, has been in my position before so i feel entirely comfortable in talking to her about how i'm climbing and comp results. But some young people don't have that. Especially young girls that climb with their dads and i doubt that many dads understand how difficult it is for a young teenage girl to cope with not doing their best in a competition or not climbing well for a while. Or if a young girl has a male coach that hasn't got knowledge of how girls work, it can be so hard for both the climber and coach/parent. I know this because i have been through it, seen as i have always climbed with my dad.
Anyway, my plans for 2013 are big changes in my lifestyle. I want to get stronger and fitter than ever before. I want to surpass anyones expectations of myself and prove that the 9th December was just a bad day and that i can represent Great Britain around the world. This is a huge task and it isn't going to be easy, but i am definitely prepared to put in the effort. I've joined the gym, which is going to help me get fit. My diet is going to improve. And i am going to be training hard so that at the second round of the JBBC's i can prove myself. And then go on to bigger things. This is definitely a plan i am going to stick to.
Friday, 28 December 2012
Thursday, 6 December 2012
Time To Try Harder.
So it’s that
time. The Junior British Bouldering Team
Trials are on Sunday, which is also the first round of the new Junior British
Bouldering Championships. This is generally the time where all my worries are
cropping up every day and I wonder if I did enough or did the right thing. But
instead of thinking this, I am totally relaxed about it. There is nothing I can
do now, apart from take it easy and rest. I know I can climb at a decent level
and it’s time to put an effort in. I’m not quite sure what has triggered this
new attitude, maybe a new massive level of psyche that has kicked in? Probably.
But I just feel like there is no point in worrying, it only hinders you. So
what I haven’t trained much recently? So what I’ve been ill? So what I’m not in
the best shape I could be? All these things certainly haven’t helped my
climbing, but it’s definitely given me a new insight into how I should look at
my climbing. Even after a pretty big break of not climbing much and not
climbing well, the past couple of weeks have really looked up, and I just hope
I don’t let myself, and others, down on Sunday.
Anyway, a few
weeks ago I competed in the Battle of Britain at The Depot Leeds. Which was a
stupid idea. I had an awful cold and I wasn’t fit to compete at all, I let the
idiotic side of me trash myself in the comp. I missed out on finals and left
feeling in even worse shape, tired and miserable. But life goes on, and the
next comp was the Monday after at the Foundry, which again wasn’t such a
fantastic idea. Needless to say I felt weak and tired and ill. I think you are
probably getting the idea. The following Friday I competed in the bouldering
league at The Climbing Works. Guess what? I felt weak, not as weak as I had
previously been but still, nowhere near the level I usually climb at. I still
managed to win the juniors and the seniors, probably due to some people not
handing in their scorecards. But still, a wins a win.
After a few
sessions I started to feel slightly stronger, and I gradually got rid of my
cold and my strength began to return, sort of. Then the Saturday just gone
there was the round of the NIBL at the works, I really wanted to do well in
this comp, and I thought I would as I felt quite strong when I was warming up.
But for some reason when I climbed I kept fumbling holds and I didn’t feel like
I was trying, maybe my body was tired or not fully recovered from being ill. Not
making excuses or anything... But in the end I came fourth in the senior
women’s, alright I suppose.
After more
sessions of just loads of climbing, I definitely feel like my strength and
climbing is getting there now, and I’ve just been enjoying climbing, trying a
lot of fun problems, and brushing up on my funky dyno skills for Sunday.
Also, I joined the
gym at college today, which I will start to go to quite a bit after this comp.
I’m doing this for a few reasons. And if you read my last blog you might have
an idea of them. But I feel I have a healthier goal now. And I’ve also sorted
out my revision and college work so my head feels in a much better place.
Tomorrow night is
my last session, be it a very easy one, before the comp. I don’t know if I’m
going to make it on to the British Team. All I can do is put my everything into
every problem and wait and see. All I know is that if I do make it on to the
team, my amount of psyche will be insane and I will be training like a
mentalist. I want to be able to make my climbing to go extraordinary places. And
personally, I don’t see why it can’t.
Thursday, 8 November 2012
It's been a while..
So its been a fair few months since i wrote a blog, many reasons are behind this, a lack of motivation in my climbing, starting college, and generally being a teenager. This blog isn't going to be anything too exciting, just whats been going on.
It seems a very long time ago now, but i went for a trip to Wales in August, i went with ambitions to tick a lot of problems and finally get some good climbing done on rock. But because of constant rain, getting a bit fed up of the constant rain and getting sick of camping, the climbing i did was poor and i was disappointed to say the least, i don't think it helped that my great-nan passed away before i went, and i had to return home half way through the trip for her funeral, she was a massive part of my life and it really affected me when she died. Even though she didn't really grasp what climbing was, how it worked, or how the competitions worked, she took a massive interest in it and was always supportive of everything, always wished me good luck with everything. And i didn't really feel myself on the trip, no motivation, and putting myself down with my climbing, not a successful trip.
When i got home from Wales i didn't feel psyched to climb at all, i had some time off and did general teenage things, go and see friends, go to the occasional party and i had a lot of fun and made a lot of new friends. I hadn't started college yet either, so it felt amazing to not have to do anything, to have free time to do anything i wanted, and not have the constant thought of training and the worries of climbing on my mind, i felt like an actual teenager.
Eventually psyche returned and i was back to training, fitness training. I'd never really done anything like this before and it felt good to have a big change in my training. My aim was to get light, lose some weight and just get a better fitness base for climbing in general and competitions. I definitely got a lot fitter and could climb for a long time while climbing a lot of hard problems and still feel strong. But i've always had trouble with losing weight and keeping weight off. Everyone says 'oh you're young, its fine, don't worry about it.' But how can a 16 year old girl not worry about her weight if she isn't happy with it? Especially when i see other female climbers, younger than me, my own age and older than me, who look athletically fit and i'm not going to lie i envy them. Even when climbing, when i'm in the environment i love, i still feel self-conscious and im always wondering if someone is staring and wondering why i'm not super athletic if i train so much. And i try to forget about it, but it's hard, and especially in todays world, where according to magazines to be attractive you have to be super thin, no masculinity and look perfect all the time. It angers me a lot especially when people who have no idea who i am or what i do, judge me because i am more muscular than the average teenage girl. Especially at college, where the boys want 'perfect girls', and there are 'perfect' girls everywhere.
Anyway, enough of the typical teenage girl whining, i just think some people don't realise how hard it is sometimes, for everyone, have some consideration and don't judge someone for what you see straight away. I guess that's the general message i'm trying to get across.
So, i started college, and motivation was low again with the stress of it all, all the work, then having a job on top of that, then trying to train on top of that. It's hard, and i'm still trying to find the balance where everything works. I'm not worried about my climbing because i don't feel as psyched as i should, i think its good to feel like that sometimes, because when motivation returns you will feel more psyched then ever.
After the BBC's, this year has been quite strange with all thats happened and i feel a lot more mature for it, dealing with so much at once. But now i feel i'm starting to focus on climbing again now i've settled into college. Theres a comp on saturday at The Depot, the Battle Of Britain which i am competing in, it's my first comp since the BBC's and i want to see how i'm performing, there will probably be more blogs to come seen as there are that many comps coming up.
The main focus of mine is the Youth Open Event on the 9th December at The Climbing Hangar, it's part of the selection for the new GB youth bouldering team, and i want to get on it. There's no doubt about it, and i hope the fluctuation in my climbing won't have affected how i'm going to perform on the day, i mean i still feel strong, i just don't know how i'm going to compare to the other competitors. But we shall see.
Anyway, that's enough rubbish from me, just crossing my fingers that this cold disappears asap. It's rendered me useless. Time to drink more tea and possibly fall asleep, peace out.
Saturday, 14 July 2012
British Bouldering Championships 2012
On the 7th and 8th of July 2012 it was the BBC's 2012 in the Cliffhanger event at Graves Park Sheffield. Unfortunately because of the awesome English weather the Cliffhanger event had to be cancelled, but the BBC's still went on.. Oh, and expect a long blog this time, there's a lot to get though..
On the saturday it was the seniors and the IFSC juniors turn to climb, and it was fantastic to watch, and my psyche levels were at an all time high, after being on my feet all day it was time to head home and get some sleep for the following day, when it was my turn to climb.
I am now in the IFSC Youth A category, and i will be next year, which means i compete in the junior competition, which was definitely a good thing. We arrived early sunday morning to register, get our vests and numbers, then spend a while scoping at the problems while the boys climbed, the girls didn't climb until 1pm.
Eventually 1pm arrived and it was time to head out into qualification, which was a free for all. It's hard to time yourself properly, if you leave the hard ones until last, you are tired and everyone is trying them, but if you try the harder ones first you may be too nervous and make mistakes, it's a fine balance. I was working through the problems well and i got to 80 points without dropping a climb, that meant 8 flashes. I had two more climbs to go, hopefully two more flashes. The problem i tried next was a blue volumes problem, and i worked through the difficult sections and found myself locking up to the last hold and i think i let my head go, i didn't keep myself composed and fell off the last hold. What an idiot. But i put my scorecard straight back in as the que's for the last two problems were ridiculous, and to make matters worse they overlapped so you had to wait for one person to finish before the other climb could be attempted. Anyway, my turn on the blue problem arrived again and i mucked it up completely, i think it was a mixture of being tired, greasy holds and feeling irritated at having hardly any time left. But i put my scorecard in on the final problem i had left to try, and it didn't look that hard, i could have flashed it which would have meant 90 points but we ran out of time and many girls couldn't even attempt the two overlapping problems, i wasn't happy about it at all. But i blame myself for not flashing the blue and that would have meant i would have had time for the final problem, frustration wasn't the word. But 80 points meant i was qualifying into finals in 3rd place, with Molly Thompson Smith and Tara Hayes in joint first with 97 points.
Finals arrived and i felt totally relaxed and composed, and the format was 3+ which meant you had 3 minutes to attempt a climb and if you started the climb before the 3 minutes ended you could continue, but it would be your last attempt. And it turns out 3 minutes is hardly any time at all. But we did get a viewing time of each problem, and they looked very cool. But i was out 6th, and it dragged on, listening as each girl before me failed to top out, a few even falling off the last hold, and as Gracie Martin climbed i put my shoes on and got myself ready for the climb, her time was up and it was my turn. Problem 1 was in a corner and started on a volume, i lay-backed the volume and got my foot high, reaching for a round volume, once i got here i chalked up, the final hold was so near and i was indecisive to whether i should just go for it now, but i ignored the braver side of myself and reached out to a volume which had another two round volumes on the corner of it, i found myself looking up at the last hold, i kept my foot low and just threw up to the hold which was triangular shaped and not the best of textures. but i clamped my legs around the volume and gave a very satisfying match. Molly was out next and also flashed the problem. After Molly was Tara, and i could hear the crowd screaming, then she fell, and that was it, no top out for Tara, which meant Molly was in first place and i was in second because Molly scored higher in qualifiers.
Eventually my turn on problem 2 arrived and i gave the problem one last look, starting an a weird wiggly volume, out to a big round volume, with a crimpy undercut bonus hold next to it, and then a no hands finish quite a way above the bonus hold, just some tape marking it, and looking back i feel such an idiot, a complete moron, the beta was obvious, somehow i just managed to keep getting myself into the wrong position and i didn't go for the right beta once, i should have mantled the volume and got the undercut, then slowly stood up for the finish, but no, i contorted myself all over the place, only managing the bonus hold, my dad was right, i could have easily have done that problem, but i guess thats the way of the comps. And no other girls topped that climb, which meant i kept my second place at the moment.
Problem 3 was ridiculous, not one girl got even the bonus, it was a horrible press off your right wrist and then you had to get your foot onto your right hand hold, which i almost did, but my hamstring kept cramping up beyond belief, which was very frustrating.
The final problem 4 arrived and it looked just my style, a weird undercut-volume start, to another pinchy volume, then out through the roof to two round volumes, the left one was the bonus, then a crimpy finish, i should have nailed this problem, but i guess i was tired and a bit stressed because none of the girls were topping anything. I just kept slapping at the volume and tried all sorts, double handed to one volume, going straight to the bonus, nothing worked, and i waited as Molly climbed this problem, she got the bonus and the crowd went insane, which meant she had won, that was it, but she didn't manage to top it, which drove me insane because i could have won if i had done that 2nd problem, but by no means does that mean i wasn't happy with 2nd place, i was extremely happy with second place! And i also got 1st place in the Youth A age category, even better!
So after months of very hard training, and the BBC's being my ultimate challenge, i was very happy coming home sunday evening able to say i was Britain's top female Youth A boulderer, and the second best female junior boulderer. The best day of my life so far.. until next year!
On the saturday it was the seniors and the IFSC juniors turn to climb, and it was fantastic to watch, and my psyche levels were at an all time high, after being on my feet all day it was time to head home and get some sleep for the following day, when it was my turn to climb.
I am now in the IFSC Youth A category, and i will be next year, which means i compete in the junior competition, which was definitely a good thing. We arrived early sunday morning to register, get our vests and numbers, then spend a while scoping at the problems while the boys climbed, the girls didn't climb until 1pm.
Eventually 1pm arrived and it was time to head out into qualification, which was a free for all. It's hard to time yourself properly, if you leave the hard ones until last, you are tired and everyone is trying them, but if you try the harder ones first you may be too nervous and make mistakes, it's a fine balance. I was working through the problems well and i got to 80 points without dropping a climb, that meant 8 flashes. I had two more climbs to go, hopefully two more flashes. The problem i tried next was a blue volumes problem, and i worked through the difficult sections and found myself locking up to the last hold and i think i let my head go, i didn't keep myself composed and fell off the last hold. What an idiot. But i put my scorecard straight back in as the que's for the last two problems were ridiculous, and to make matters worse they overlapped so you had to wait for one person to finish before the other climb could be attempted. Anyway, my turn on the blue problem arrived again and i mucked it up completely, i think it was a mixture of being tired, greasy holds and feeling irritated at having hardly any time left. But i put my scorecard in on the final problem i had left to try, and it didn't look that hard, i could have flashed it which would have meant 90 points but we ran out of time and many girls couldn't even attempt the two overlapping problems, i wasn't happy about it at all. But i blame myself for not flashing the blue and that would have meant i would have had time for the final problem, frustration wasn't the word. But 80 points meant i was qualifying into finals in 3rd place, with Molly Thompson Smith and Tara Hayes in joint first with 97 points.
On the blue volumes problem in qualifying
Photo by Mark Stringfellow
Finals arrived and i felt totally relaxed and composed, and the format was 3+ which meant you had 3 minutes to attempt a climb and if you started the climb before the 3 minutes ended you could continue, but it would be your last attempt. And it turns out 3 minutes is hardly any time at all. But we did get a viewing time of each problem, and they looked very cool. But i was out 6th, and it dragged on, listening as each girl before me failed to top out, a few even falling off the last hold, and as Gracie Martin climbed i put my shoes on and got myself ready for the climb, her time was up and it was my turn. Problem 1 was in a corner and started on a volume, i lay-backed the volume and got my foot high, reaching for a round volume, once i got here i chalked up, the final hold was so near and i was indecisive to whether i should just go for it now, but i ignored the braver side of myself and reached out to a volume which had another two round volumes on the corner of it, i found myself looking up at the last hold, i kept my foot low and just threw up to the hold which was triangular shaped and not the best of textures. but i clamped my legs around the volume and gave a very satisfying match. Molly was out next and also flashed the problem. After Molly was Tara, and i could hear the crowd screaming, then she fell, and that was it, no top out for Tara, which meant Molly was in first place and i was in second because Molly scored higher in qualifiers.
Final Problem 1, pondering whether to go for the last hold now, maybe not..
Photo by Alex Messenger
Eventually my turn on problem 2 arrived and i gave the problem one last look, starting an a weird wiggly volume, out to a big round volume, with a crimpy undercut bonus hold next to it, and then a no hands finish quite a way above the bonus hold, just some tape marking it, and looking back i feel such an idiot, a complete moron, the beta was obvious, somehow i just managed to keep getting myself into the wrong position and i didn't go for the right beta once, i should have mantled the volume and got the undercut, then slowly stood up for the finish, but no, i contorted myself all over the place, only managing the bonus hold, my dad was right, i could have easily have done that problem, but i guess thats the way of the comps. And no other girls topped that climb, which meant i kept my second place at the moment.
Problem 3 was ridiculous, not one girl got even the bonus, it was a horrible press off your right wrist and then you had to get your foot onto your right hand hold, which i almost did, but my hamstring kept cramping up beyond belief, which was very frustrating.
The final problem 4 arrived and it looked just my style, a weird undercut-volume start, to another pinchy volume, then out through the roof to two round volumes, the left one was the bonus, then a crimpy finish, i should have nailed this problem, but i guess i was tired and a bit stressed because none of the girls were topping anything. I just kept slapping at the volume and tried all sorts, double handed to one volume, going straight to the bonus, nothing worked, and i waited as Molly climbed this problem, she got the bonus and the crowd went insane, which meant she had won, that was it, but she didn't manage to top it, which drove me insane because i could have won if i had done that 2nd problem, but by no means does that mean i wasn't happy with 2nd place, i was extremely happy with second place! And i also got 1st place in the Youth A age category, even better!
So after months of very hard training, and the BBC's being my ultimate challenge, i was very happy coming home sunday evening able to say i was Britain's top female Youth A boulderer, and the second best female junior boulderer. The best day of my life so far.. until next year!
Sunday, 10 June 2012
Yet more Comps
So friday night i was just chilling at home, when i realised there was a comp at CityBloc Leeds, Bloc Party, and it looked pretty good, and its all good training for the BBC's anyway. So my Dad soon had a phone call asking if he could take me and Natasha Smile, a good friend of mine, to the comp on Saturday, and it turned out Saturday morning we were on our way.
We arrived at CityBloc and got warmed up and looked at all 40 qualification problems that had to be completed in 4 hours, turns out 40 problems is a lot. I worked my way through them and made some stupid mistakes and i never thought i would be making finals, as i had wanted to. I wasn't feeling strong and i got 277 out of 400, not good at all. But i just scraped finals getting in at joint 5th, there was only meant to be 5 in finals.
In Finals the first problem was relatively easy up to the bonus, on my flash attempt i got the bonus and fell off the same point every attempt after that, and managed to get pumped, never good at the beginning of a final.
The second problem felt nails, i couldn't get my head round it, just kept greasing off dirty slopers and volumes, and again getting pumped, got no where on this problem.
The third problem was very interesting, a pretty steady start, then a sideways fall-jump thing to a huge jug which was the bonus, then up to 3 very nasty looking crimps and a finish on a not so big hold. On my first attempt i used the wrong beta and fell off the sloper before the huge jug, then on my second attempt i set myself up on the sloper and aimed for the jug, i got it with my right hand, held part of the swing, came into match, and greased off!! i was gutted! And i did the same every attempt after that, got some pretty exciting falls in that final, face-planting the matt, all hilarious. I didn't know whether they would count the bonus for the third problem, so it was a bit of a tense wait to see where i had placed overall. But before they announced the winners i tried the third problem again, and i easily held the swing, and i felt so stupid, because i knew i could have done it in finals, it was an easy move! I guess its just something to learn from, I need to learn that if i want some chalk on that huge jug i was greasing off because it was a new hold i should put some chalk on it! And i need to relax for finals, and get over the head game that climbing is all about, but it will come.
So it was time for announcing, i was expecting to stay at 5th seen as i hadn't climbed well at all, but it turns out my name wasn't called until 3rd! i was happy with that! Then Diane Merrick came second and Leah Crane came first, so i wasn't disappointed with 3rd at all! And i got £25 to take home, not bad for a last minute comp! And i am currently still getting over tonsillitis! so yeah, not bad. Oh, and Natasha Smile won the juniors and got a shed load of stuff! Well done Tash! So all in all it was an awesome day with very cool problems and a great atmosphere, will hopefully be there next year, but for now im going to concentrate on BBC's, and im glad i got one more final in as im aiming to podium at the BBC's, and with only 4 weeks to go the pressure is on!
Still got that comp psyche..
We arrived at CityBloc and got warmed up and looked at all 40 qualification problems that had to be completed in 4 hours, turns out 40 problems is a lot. I worked my way through them and made some stupid mistakes and i never thought i would be making finals, as i had wanted to. I wasn't feeling strong and i got 277 out of 400, not good at all. But i just scraped finals getting in at joint 5th, there was only meant to be 5 in finals.
In Finals the first problem was relatively easy up to the bonus, on my flash attempt i got the bonus and fell off the same point every attempt after that, and managed to get pumped, never good at the beginning of a final.
The second problem felt nails, i couldn't get my head round it, just kept greasing off dirty slopers and volumes, and again getting pumped, got no where on this problem.
The third problem was very interesting, a pretty steady start, then a sideways fall-jump thing to a huge jug which was the bonus, then up to 3 very nasty looking crimps and a finish on a not so big hold. On my first attempt i used the wrong beta and fell off the sloper before the huge jug, then on my second attempt i set myself up on the sloper and aimed for the jug, i got it with my right hand, held part of the swing, came into match, and greased off!! i was gutted! And i did the same every attempt after that, got some pretty exciting falls in that final, face-planting the matt, all hilarious. I didn't know whether they would count the bonus for the third problem, so it was a bit of a tense wait to see where i had placed overall. But before they announced the winners i tried the third problem again, and i easily held the swing, and i felt so stupid, because i knew i could have done it in finals, it was an easy move! I guess its just something to learn from, I need to learn that if i want some chalk on that huge jug i was greasing off because it was a new hold i should put some chalk on it! And i need to relax for finals, and get over the head game that climbing is all about, but it will come.
So it was time for announcing, i was expecting to stay at 5th seen as i hadn't climbed well at all, but it turns out my name wasn't called until 3rd! i was happy with that! Then Diane Merrick came second and Leah Crane came first, so i wasn't disappointed with 3rd at all! And i got £25 to take home, not bad for a last minute comp! And i am currently still getting over tonsillitis! so yeah, not bad. Oh, and Natasha Smile won the juniors and got a shed load of stuff! Well done Tash! So all in all it was an awesome day with very cool problems and a great atmosphere, will hopefully be there next year, but for now im going to concentrate on BBC's, and im glad i got one more final in as im aiming to podium at the BBC's, and with only 4 weeks to go the pressure is on!
Still got that comp psyche..
 |
| Problem 2, getting no where |
 |
| Problem 1, holding the bonus |
 |
| Problem 3, steady does it |
 |
| Problem 3 |
 |
| Problem 3, so close on that swing! |
 |
| Problem 3 again |
 |
| Problem 1 again, in the process of getting pumped. |
Saturday, 19 May 2012
Training, training and more training.
So lately all i've been doing is training, with the odd bit of trying to get out. Although i've been quite careful because of my finger injury, which is frustrating because i trained so hard to get my crimp strength up and now i cant use it! Well, i can't use it past a certain extent.
So the latest aim was to get my lock working because it was useless, after a session with Lucinda Whittaker, i quickly got my lock technique right, turned out i had been lifting my elbow when trying to lock so i couldn't use it so much. After practicing keeping my elbow down it has gotten stronger and i've definitely noticed a difference! Still wanting to get a whole lot stronger for the BBC's on the 7/8th of July, but i do think my experience at the CWIF in the semi-finals will put me in a stronger position because those problems were hard, and im hoping the finals at the BBC's will feel relatively easy, and im hoping them to be quite powerful! feeling the comp style lately! fingers crossed!
I also turned 16 on the 16th of May which means i am now in the Youth A category for the new BBC format, putting me with other 16 and 17 year olds. Will be interesting to experience a new format, and i heard that depending on your performance at the BBC's you may be selected to go and compete in the European Youth Bouldering Championships or whatever they are, no idea how thats going to work. Even if i happened to win the BBC's (Here's to hoping) or come in the top 3, im not on the british junior team, because i dont sport climb, and they dont have a junior bouldering team. Good one that. So who knows whats gonna go down.
But away from the training front, i did manage to get to stanage the other weekend. Can't say it was a brilliant day, it was quite warm, and The Green Traverse is one problem i just cant seem to get, without even warming up i did the crux move in isolation, then i warmed up, pulled on, and failed so many times it was unreal. So frustrating! Next time though, after a huge failing session i had a go on the business boulder i think it was and managed to flash Jerrys Finish 6C, an easy problem with a horrible topout, was well greasy, but i managed to belly flop my way over the top, so graceful!
Anyway, just thought i would do a bit of an update, nothing interesting really. Hoping to get out tomorrow if the weather is kind, very much doubt it, the most likely case will be a moster session at the works, peace out!
And here's the video of me completing problem 2 at the ASBO, the only woman to do so too!
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=421048681248235&set=vb.185470951501038&type=2&theater
So the latest aim was to get my lock working because it was useless, after a session with Lucinda Whittaker, i quickly got my lock technique right, turned out i had been lifting my elbow when trying to lock so i couldn't use it so much. After practicing keeping my elbow down it has gotten stronger and i've definitely noticed a difference! Still wanting to get a whole lot stronger for the BBC's on the 7/8th of July, but i do think my experience at the CWIF in the semi-finals will put me in a stronger position because those problems were hard, and im hoping the finals at the BBC's will feel relatively easy, and im hoping them to be quite powerful! feeling the comp style lately! fingers crossed!
I also turned 16 on the 16th of May which means i am now in the Youth A category for the new BBC format, putting me with other 16 and 17 year olds. Will be interesting to experience a new format, and i heard that depending on your performance at the BBC's you may be selected to go and compete in the European Youth Bouldering Championships or whatever they are, no idea how thats going to work. Even if i happened to win the BBC's (Here's to hoping) or come in the top 3, im not on the british junior team, because i dont sport climb, and they dont have a junior bouldering team. Good one that. So who knows whats gonna go down.
But away from the training front, i did manage to get to stanage the other weekend. Can't say it was a brilliant day, it was quite warm, and The Green Traverse is one problem i just cant seem to get, without even warming up i did the crux move in isolation, then i warmed up, pulled on, and failed so many times it was unreal. So frustrating! Next time though, after a huge failing session i had a go on the business boulder i think it was and managed to flash Jerrys Finish 6C, an easy problem with a horrible topout, was well greasy, but i managed to belly flop my way over the top, so graceful!
Anyway, just thought i would do a bit of an update, nothing interesting really. Hoping to get out tomorrow if the weather is kind, very much doubt it, the most likely case will be a moster session at the works, peace out!
And here's the video of me completing problem 2 at the ASBO, the only woman to do so too!
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=421048681248235&set=vb.185470951501038&type=2&theater
Saturday, 5 May 2012
ASBO 2012
After a successful winter of comps, winning the foundry and the climbing works bouldering league, the northern indoor bouldering league and getting in to the semi-finals of then CWIF, i was happy with my comp results. I was indecisive over doing the ASBO comp or not, a few weeks ago i tweaked my finger on my left hand and it still isn't right, but it feels strong on most holds when i climb, its just the odd tiny crimps that hurt it. But anyway, i thought i would go to Newcastle anyway because it seemed an amazing comp, and i had been told i had a chance of winning it, always a bonus!
So, the friday morning of the ASBO it was time to get going, setting off at 10 to pick Dom up from the works then off to Newcastle, we had an easy journey and arrived just after 1 then we got stuck straight in to 30 pink problems. I found the setting amazing and the people there were also amazing, so motivational and kind! Me, my dad and Dom made our way through most problems relatively easy, Dom scored 275, my dad i think 261, and i scored 248. During one of the problems in qualification i tweaked my finger slightly on a horrible crimp, which annoyed me because i should have done the problem otherwise! But apart from that i was quite happy with my score, it turned out to be the highest score in the women's, putting me first place into finals.
We then had to wait until 8:30pm until the finalists were announced, which took a very long time.
Going into isolation i felt nervous, i felt added pressure as i had qualified in first and i was a junior, i wanted to keep my first place. Warming up i felt good, my finger ached a little but it was to be expected. At 9pm we went to view the final 3 problems, psyche was building... The first problem looked easy, a start on a volume up to a big positive crimp, and just working through a sequence of holds, then at the top of the climb, there was a massive hold with 3 ball-shape parts to it, i held the top one and noticed the hold coming away from the wall! i could see the gap and i started to panic a little as it was my flash attempt and i didn't want to fall off because of a moving hold! below the finishing upside down triangle volume was a rubbish sloper, so i missed it out and reached out to the volume off of the wobbly hold, a bit tentative! matching the volume i felt a huge wave of relief, i knew most other women had flashed this problem so i had to follow suit. Now back to isolation..
When we viewed the second climb it was a start on a huge jug, out left to a big hold, then a dyno to a huge jug. The other women were all really nervous when we were discussing it, which made me feel secretly confident as i had been working on moving dynamically for a long time. Back in isolation i waited as each competitor used the whole of their 4 minutes and not one woman did the dyno problem. Heading out last i felt all my nerves disappear that i felt in isolation, and i worked out the climb one last time and got stuck straight into it. I knew my dad might be quite nervous for this climb for me because i did find flashing dyno's difficult, i wanted to do him proud. Getting to the second hold i stood on the foothold on the volume and looked up to the jug, my flash attempt, knowing that no one had done this move made me want it even more. I can't hardly remember what i was thinking before i jumped, my mind kind of shut off and i just went for it, keeping my right and low and my left foot low, i launched, felt my left arm throw down and before i knew it the jug was in my right hand!! The crowd screamed and cheered and i even heard Andy Earl cheering for me! I think i even shouted 'yes!' when i got the hold! The rest of the climb was easy and matching the finishing jug of my second flash put me in a very strong position, back to isolation again..
Viewing the third climb i felt much more nervous. A start on a huge round volume which didn't feel brilliant, out to a horrible looking crimp on my left hand, on my bad finger, then in with my right hand to another tiny crimp then to an arete and the rest of the climb looked steady. Waiting for my turn to climb a few of the other women flashed and completed the final problem, adding more pressure. But again as i ran out to the climb i heard Dom and my dad cheering and the nerves disappeared again. A quick look at the climb and i pulled on, i locked out to the crimp and i really didn't want to hold it, so i tried reaching out to the arete and kept budging my foot across the volume i was stood on, then my foot slipped, i hit my shin on the volume and i was stood back on the floor. The crowd went silent. It felt like my head turned to mush. I decided i would just have to man up and hold the crimp. I gathered and calmed myself down and pulled back on, i got the crimp, came in with my right hand and i was at the arete. I put my foot out on to the next volume on the vertical wall and wedged myself in the corner to gather myself and shake off the pain of my finger. The place was absolutely silent and all i could hear was myself breathing and the click of the cameras. Gently pushing myself over my foot i fell on to the volume and i began working through the next sequence of moves, i felt a smile on my face as i reached for the final hold and as i matched i knew i had won. Back on the ground i looked straight towards my dad and the smile on his face made me know he was proud, i think he had the biggest smile there.
It was time for the announcing, hearing my name being called in first place was probably the proudest moment of my life. i mean, no it wasn't the biggest comp in the world, but it was one i had won, and not just against juniors, but against women as well, I just simply couldn't believe it. I had won a pair of scarpa shoes, which i couldn't wear because of my Red Chili contract, so i decided to give them to my dad, a bit of thanks to him. I also need to thank everyone who cheered for me! Wouldn't have done it without you! Now it was time for a long journey home, which was interesting in its own right..
Got back to the van and someone had stole the mirror out of the wing mirror of my dad's van. brilliant. But we got on with it and were on our way to drop Dom off at home and about 15 minutes from Meadowhall the back tyre basically exploded on the van on the motorway. We pulled up and when we looked at it, it was a right mess. It was about 1 in the morning and we were stuck on the motorway with an exploded tyre. I just wanted my bed. We rang the AA as my dad couldn't get the spare tyre off from under the van. After sitting on the bank of the motorway on a couple of bouldering pads in the dark the AA man finally arrived at 2:15am. Not so happy. Being freezing the AA man let me and Dom sit in the AA van thing. It was sooo warm. They finally got the tyre sorted and we were back on our way at 2:30, now to drop Dom off and then back to Rotherham after about 20 hours of being awake. At 3:40 i was in bed and i had kind of forgotten my success at the comp. I looked at my camera and my dad had filmed the dyno, not very well as he had reason to be distracted! But at that moment the feeling of being so proud returned, and i felt that my climbing was beginning to really take off, now to hope this streak of winning continues at the BBC's in July..
So, the friday morning of the ASBO it was time to get going, setting off at 10 to pick Dom up from the works then off to Newcastle, we had an easy journey and arrived just after 1 then we got stuck straight in to 30 pink problems. I found the setting amazing and the people there were also amazing, so motivational and kind! Me, my dad and Dom made our way through most problems relatively easy, Dom scored 275, my dad i think 261, and i scored 248. During one of the problems in qualification i tweaked my finger slightly on a horrible crimp, which annoyed me because i should have done the problem otherwise! But apart from that i was quite happy with my score, it turned out to be the highest score in the women's, putting me first place into finals.
We then had to wait until 8:30pm until the finalists were announced, which took a very long time.
Going into isolation i felt nervous, i felt added pressure as i had qualified in first and i was a junior, i wanted to keep my first place. Warming up i felt good, my finger ached a little but it was to be expected. At 9pm we went to view the final 3 problems, psyche was building... The first problem looked easy, a start on a volume up to a big positive crimp, and just working through a sequence of holds, then at the top of the climb, there was a massive hold with 3 ball-shape parts to it, i held the top one and noticed the hold coming away from the wall! i could see the gap and i started to panic a little as it was my flash attempt and i didn't want to fall off because of a moving hold! below the finishing upside down triangle volume was a rubbish sloper, so i missed it out and reached out to the volume off of the wobbly hold, a bit tentative! matching the volume i felt a huge wave of relief, i knew most other women had flashed this problem so i had to follow suit. Now back to isolation..
When we viewed the second climb it was a start on a huge jug, out left to a big hold, then a dyno to a huge jug. The other women were all really nervous when we were discussing it, which made me feel secretly confident as i had been working on moving dynamically for a long time. Back in isolation i waited as each competitor used the whole of their 4 minutes and not one woman did the dyno problem. Heading out last i felt all my nerves disappear that i felt in isolation, and i worked out the climb one last time and got stuck straight into it. I knew my dad might be quite nervous for this climb for me because i did find flashing dyno's difficult, i wanted to do him proud. Getting to the second hold i stood on the foothold on the volume and looked up to the jug, my flash attempt, knowing that no one had done this move made me want it even more. I can't hardly remember what i was thinking before i jumped, my mind kind of shut off and i just went for it, keeping my right and low and my left foot low, i launched, felt my left arm throw down and before i knew it the jug was in my right hand!! The crowd screamed and cheered and i even heard Andy Earl cheering for me! I think i even shouted 'yes!' when i got the hold! The rest of the climb was easy and matching the finishing jug of my second flash put me in a very strong position, back to isolation again..
Viewing the third climb i felt much more nervous. A start on a huge round volume which didn't feel brilliant, out to a horrible looking crimp on my left hand, on my bad finger, then in with my right hand to another tiny crimp then to an arete and the rest of the climb looked steady. Waiting for my turn to climb a few of the other women flashed and completed the final problem, adding more pressure. But again as i ran out to the climb i heard Dom and my dad cheering and the nerves disappeared again. A quick look at the climb and i pulled on, i locked out to the crimp and i really didn't want to hold it, so i tried reaching out to the arete and kept budging my foot across the volume i was stood on, then my foot slipped, i hit my shin on the volume and i was stood back on the floor. The crowd went silent. It felt like my head turned to mush. I decided i would just have to man up and hold the crimp. I gathered and calmed myself down and pulled back on, i got the crimp, came in with my right hand and i was at the arete. I put my foot out on to the next volume on the vertical wall and wedged myself in the corner to gather myself and shake off the pain of my finger. The place was absolutely silent and all i could hear was myself breathing and the click of the cameras. Gently pushing myself over my foot i fell on to the volume and i began working through the next sequence of moves, i felt a smile on my face as i reached for the final hold and as i matched i knew i had won. Back on the ground i looked straight towards my dad and the smile on his face made me know he was proud, i think he had the biggest smile there.
It was time for the announcing, hearing my name being called in first place was probably the proudest moment of my life. i mean, no it wasn't the biggest comp in the world, but it was one i had won, and not just against juniors, but against women as well, I just simply couldn't believe it. I had won a pair of scarpa shoes, which i couldn't wear because of my Red Chili contract, so i decided to give them to my dad, a bit of thanks to him. I also need to thank everyone who cheered for me! Wouldn't have done it without you! Now it was time for a long journey home, which was interesting in its own right..
Got back to the van and someone had stole the mirror out of the wing mirror of my dad's van. brilliant. But we got on with it and were on our way to drop Dom off at home and about 15 minutes from Meadowhall the back tyre basically exploded on the van on the motorway. We pulled up and when we looked at it, it was a right mess. It was about 1 in the morning and we were stuck on the motorway with an exploded tyre. I just wanted my bed. We rang the AA as my dad couldn't get the spare tyre off from under the van. After sitting on the bank of the motorway on a couple of bouldering pads in the dark the AA man finally arrived at 2:15am. Not so happy. Being freezing the AA man let me and Dom sit in the AA van thing. It was sooo warm. They finally got the tyre sorted and we were back on our way at 2:30, now to drop Dom off and then back to Rotherham after about 20 hours of being awake. At 3:40 i was in bed and i had kind of forgotten my success at the comp. I looked at my camera and my dad had filmed the dyno, not very well as he had reason to be distracted! But at that moment the feeling of being so proud returned, and i felt that my climbing was beginning to really take off, now to hope this streak of winning continues at the BBC's in July..
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